At the end of September, my grandfather and I decided to go down to Marseille. My grandfather has some memories of the city, since he did his military service and has family from Marseille. We'll be there for 3 days. We visited the city, some quirky places and then the southern part of the 8th arrondissement, which was much more natural and wild.
Freed to Catch Something
by a wandering wonderer
July in London
A source of joy arrived in July 2018. Antoine, a friend I met in Quebec, was taking part in the European Touch Rugby Championship in Nottingham, England. He asked me to come and see him. I accepted straight away. Normally I always think about it, but this time I accepted quite quickly. As long as I'm in England, I'm also preparing for another week in London. I've always wanted to go there. So I'm planning a trip to the city. I booked a room in a youth hostel near the station and then got my train tickets. I'll be taking the train from Nottingham to London, and from there to King's Cross station.
After a fabulous few days in Nottingham, the day of departure for London arrived. I took my first train to Grantham and then the second to London. I arrive at King's Cross, the famous station from the Harry Potter adventures. I can't stop thinking about it. I picked up my suitcase and went out onto the station platform; it was so hot, at least 30 degrees. Although I had a rather cold idea of the English weather, this is quite the opposite. That doesn't stop me from being excited about discovering the city. I can't believe I'm finally in London. The only thing on my mind at the moment is to go and see the Harry Potter shop. I finally see it for real. I didn't go in because it wasn't practical with my suitcase, but instead headed for my hostel to take the weight off my shoulders. The hostel is on King's Cross Road, 10 minutes from the station. Again, it's very hot and I'm struggling to push my suitcase. After a few minutes' walk I discover this beautiful building, Clink 78, the youth hostel that used to house a court and a prison. So I'm going to sleep in an old prison in the city, which is nice. I go in, get my keys and go downstairs to my room. I stopped in front of the door, wishing I'd bumped into the right people. I open the door and discover a small room with four bunk beds. There were already people inside. I introduce myself to a Taiwanese family made up of the mother and her children, a boy and a girl in their twenties. I also meet Monica, a Mexican au-pair who has come to visit the city for a few days. They all seem friendly. The room was small, though, and I was allocated the top bunk. I would have preferred the bottom one as it's much more practical for organising things. So I went back to reception to see if I could have the bottom one. They agreed. That's fine. I went back to the room and took a shower to freshen up in the bathroom. It's tiny. I can't even cool off because it's so hot. Luckily I'd brought a portable fan with me. I have a chat with the Taiwanese girl who suggests I come with her and her brother to do some shopping in the local grocery shop. I'll do it. It'll give us a chance to talk a bit. We finally go outside. I'm already swimming. But a little breeze cools me down. That's good. I buy some fruit and a ready-made salad. They ask me to eat with them. Their mother is going to prepare a little Asian dinner. The brother and sister are happy to oblige. We head back to the hostel. We head for the basement to discover the large kitchen. There were already a lot of people there. Mum starts cooking. I start eating my salad. We had soup, rice, vegetables and a bit of meat. It was delicious. I was pleasantly surprised by the welcome. The English trip is off to a good start.
Things like that always happen when you're travelling. My stay will go so well. I'll be a bit lonely, sharing the things I've seen only in the evening with my room-mates. I'm following a programme that I drew up before the trip. I know what I'm going to see each day and I've managed to stick to it. Here are some pictures...
July 22, 2018 - Heading for Camden Town
After arriving at the hostel, and before the Taiwanese family invites me to join them for lunch, I'm already looking forward to venturing into the eclectic Camden Town district. It's a very unusual, festive and cheerful place.
There are lots of people, the atmosphere is effervescent and I'm discovering a neighborhood rich in culture and differences. It's very special, and it's good to be in a place like this. All of a sudden, there's a lot of noise coming from this store, the Cyberdog. I can see a lot of people coming in and out. I'm curious and head for the entrance. The store is the strangest I've ever seen. The entrance is spectacular, there's a DJ set, neon lights everywhere, ultra-loud music that makes you forget your ears for a while. There are even dancers on the floor, and the staff have atypical hair styles and colorful outfits. The objects sold are unusual, all illuminated by multicolored neon lights.
After all the hustle and bustle around me, I head for a quieter place, the Hamsptead district of North London. I take the Underground, which by the way is the oldest in the world. It dates back to January 1863. The station is quite old, so I stop at the district's eponymous station...
I'm discovering a wonderful neighborhood with those little brick houses I love so much and those typical English windows. I love it!!! As I said earlier, I'm following a very specific program and it's no coincidence that I'm here. I wanted to admire a rather unusual house in Hampstead on Admiral's Walk.
In 1775, Lieutenant Fountain North took possession of the house and built an upper deck on the roof. He celebrated the days of naval victories and royal anniversaries by firing cannon from the roof, causing his neighbors to light up. Sound familiar? This story inspired Mary Poppins author P.L. Travers to create the character of Admiral Boom.
I then get lost for real in North London's Hamsptead Heath park. I stop for a moment to look at these beautiful houses on the edge of Pond No. 1.
I head down to Primerose Hill in the Camden district. It's a park 78m above sea level with panoramic views over the whole of London. It's quite pleasant. The heat is beginning to fade, and you can tell it's hot from the sun's yellowing grass.
After this little moment of contemplation, I head back down to the city, where I pass Regent's Park with its white buildings, then head back to the hostel, where I'll be taking a shower without really freshening up, and eating my first meal with the Taiwanese family. I'm already looking forward to tomorrow...
July 23, 2018 - Departure for Greenwich
I checked the weather forecast, which predicted high temperatures all week. So I decide to leave very early in the morning to make the most of the coolness. This morning, I pass by King's Cross station, with its mix of old and modern architecture that I really like.
I take the Underground to Greenwich Park in south-east London. I emerge from the tube, it's just 9:00 am and the weather is beautiful with a temperature of 27°C. I'm going to survive...
I have to walk a little before reaching the park and the Marine Museum. I don't really feel up to visiting it, so I decide to walk through the park and reach the Royal Observatory at Greenwich in the distance.
The astronomical observatory features a very special historical curiosity: the Prime Meridian, which divides the globe into Eastern and Western hemispheres. It also serves as a reference for the definition of time zones, which were established at the international conference in Washington in 1884. I like to position myself along this famous longitudinal line, with my left foot in the West and my right foot in the East...
I stay there for a while before stepping outside to admire the view from this hill overlooking the Queen's House, built in 1616, and the City in the background. You'll note that the name “Greenwich” is not at all appropriate for this sun-yellowed park...…
View of the City and the Millennium Dome, London's famous O2 concert arena. I also pass the statue of General James Wolfe. He won the battle of the Plains of Abraham in 1759, which led to the fall of Quebec City.
I then go back down to the park and pass the very old Queen's Oak, more than a hundred years old and planted in the 12th century. Now on the ground, it is said to be the tree at the foot of which Queen Elizabeth I used to picnic.
AI reach the famous building of the Royal Naval College and then enter the pedestrian tunnel under the Thames to reach The Isle of Dogs, close to Canary Wharf, the business district.
I take the tube back to Canary Wharf and stop at Westminster to see the eponymous Abbey and Parliament.
I then walk according to my vision and the monuments I see in the distance. I approach the Houses of Parliament, then take a seat in the Victoria Tower Garden along the Thames. Time for a little rest...
July 24, 2018 - Along the Thames, a surprise at Buckingham Palace and a nap at the foot of a tree.
After a rather uncomfortable night due to the heat, I'm glad to get an early start that morning. The morning light is magnificent and the heat is already making itself felt, but it's pleasant. A quick photo of St. Pancras station at the start of this walk, where I pass the London Eye and the SIS building or MI6 building (Secret Intelligence Service) seen in recent James Bond films.
I then take Grosvenor Road along the Thames and walk with my music in my ears. I listen to Pink Floyds just for this moment... I reach Lupus Street where I take a photo of this pretty typical house.
I was talking about Pink Floyd. Turning back towards the Thames, I discover the building that appears on the Animals album, the Battersea Power Station.
I then turned back across the Thames to Albert Embankment and walked by chance by the IMO (International Maritime Organization) building. I had referred to this organization many times during my master's degree in Quebec. I was pleasantly surprised to pass by it. The building is very pretty, with its ship's bow and the oxidized copper sailor.
I also pass the Houses of Parliament and the famous Big Ben, which is unfortunately hidden under this scaffolding. It's getting a facelift (the work has since been completed). I notice that the stairs are tiny next to the hands of the clock.
Then I make my way to Parliament Square Garden behind Big Ben and spot the statues of Winston Churchill and Nelson Mandela. These two people have left their mark on history in different ways, and I wanted to include them here, just to point out their presence, here, in this garden.
I then walk down Victoria Street to meet “little Ben”. I had no idea that Big Ben had a little brother. It was first erected in 1892, destroyed in 1964 and finally restored and re-erected on December 15, 1981 by Westminster City Council with the help of Elf Aquitaine UK. It was donated as a gesture of Franco-British friendship. It reads:
"Little Ben's Apology for Summer Time
My hands you may retard or may advance. My heart beats true for England as for France"
The day may well bring some surprises as I unknowingly make my way into the Buckingham Palace area. It's very crowded and I wonder what it is that attracts so many people. I finally understand that the changing of the guard is going to take place in a few minutes. I can't miss it. I try to find a spot where I can get a good view of the whole castle. I cross over to the Queen Victoria Memorial. I find a little empty spot right in the middle, but it's sunny and hot as hell... I take it in my stride and watch this little spectacle. I also notice that the English flag is hoisted, indicating the Queen's presence here? I think that's it.
I leave the crowds and the heady heat behind as I pass through St. James Park...
…and head for Hyde Park. I fork ahead on Prince Consort Road to see the Royal Albert Hall, the famous building housing a legendary concert hall. The dome is being renovated, but the building is still magnificent. The architecture of the area is splendid...
I then enter the park, just in the opposite direction from the Royal Albert Hall on Kensington Gore through the gate leading to the Albert Memorial built by the prolific Sir George Gilbert Scott.
I stroll to Hyde Park where I fall asleep at the foot of a large tree after eating a sandwich and reading a few pages of my current book Portnoy and His Complex by Philip Roth. It's so hot that I doze off. Once awake and refreshed, I continue the walk towards Kensington Palace. I then passed Regent's Park and the London Beatles store on Baker Street, which sells all kinds of objects and clothes related to the music group. As I know my friend Pascal likes it a lot, I take him a guitar strap and a postcard. It'll be for his birthday...
I take a stroll down Whitehall, the street that commemorates the Second World War, notably with the statue of Alan Brooke, who was Winston Churchill's first military advisor and held the title of Field Marshall, the highest military title. There's also this magnificent monument to the important role played by women in the war effort.
Being an early Harry Potter fan, I came to London to see the film locations that appear in the movies. I had followed the recommendations of the Hogwarts.org website, which lists the locations of choice. And as I'm very close to one of these locations, I'm in a hurry to get there. Do you recognize this little spot? It's at the junction of Scotland Place and Great Scotland Yard Street... Below is the Ministry of Magic...
And these buses... I can't get enough of them. They're so charming... A mix of old and new between these two buses on line 15...
After this beautiful day, I walk quietly back to the youth hostel, passing through random streets in London. I like it a lot. I also stop off at Claremont Square, which looks a lot like 12 Square Grimmaurd, the Order of the Phoenix HQ in Harry Potter. I love it...
I also take a look at Percy Circus, a magnificent little round park surrounded by beige-brick houses. And as I look up, I realize that Lenin lived here in 1905. In fact, he came to London 6 times between 1902 and 1911. He spent most of his time at the British Library, where he first had access to the works of Carl Marx.
July 25, 2018 - A little height and a stroll along the Thames
The weather is great today and I'm not breaking the rule I've set myself. I leave very early in the morning. I'm the only one in the room to leave so early. So I try to make as little noise as possible getting ready and getting out. I'm glad I ran into the people sharing the room. They're all friendly and pleasant. We often chat in the evening, telling each other what we've seen and visited. Let's just say that during the day, I hardly speak at all, so in the evening it's still nice to be able to talk and chat. This morning, I head for Charing Cross Road, the street of theaters and bookshops. I come across the theater hosting the Harry Potter and the Cursed Child play. It looks magnificent. There's also this little street that reminds me of Diagon Alley...
I then find myself on the Mall, the wide avenue that leads to Buckingham Palace in the distance, then forks onto Waterloo Pl with the equestrian statue of Edward VII.
I finish this short walk at the National Museum in Trafalgar Square. I stop off at Waterstone's bookshop across the street to buy Winston Churchill's Early Life. I still haven't finished it...
I take the bus to 30 St. Mary Axe, or more commonly known as the Gherkin. It's a modern building in the City...
I take a stroll around this very modern part of London, with its towering skyscrapers, then approach Leadenhall Market.
It's a Victorian-style covered market with colorful arcades designed in 1881 by architect Sir Horace Jones, the same architect who helped build Tower Bridge. This market also conceals the entrance to the Leaky Cauldron in Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone...
I'd love to see the city from above, so I decided to climb the Shard, London's newest skyscraper. Top of the Shard at 306m. It overlooks the whole of London. I can see the City, the Thames, St. Paul's, London Eyes and Tower Bridge...
Do you recognize the house on the right, next to the tracks? We'll get a closer look in a moment...
After a thorough observation, I step down from the Shard and find myself in Borough Market. It's a semi-covered market. It's a bit crowded and the air is quite pleasant.
Here's a closer look at the house. Another nod to Harry Potter. In the 3rd opus, Harry fights with his book of fantastic creatures in his room at the Cauldron, whose entrance is just downstairs (it's a taco restaurant, less magical...).
I'm getting close to the Thames...
I walk along the river. I see Tower Bridge, City Hall and the HMS (Her Majesty's Ship). This is the only World War II ship preserved by the British. It's now in the port of London (I confess, I just took a photo of the front of the ship...).
I cross the Thames to take Oystergate Walk and discover the banks of the river, in particular Shakespeare's Globe. Famous for having hosted numerous performances of William Shakespeare's plays.
I catch a glimpse of St. Paul's Cathedral but don't stop (in retrospect, I think it's a shame I didn't go in, as it's a place I'd have loved to see from the inside. I didn't even think about it). Instead, I head for the Millennium Bridge to reach the Tate Modern Museum.
A few photos taken from the Museum's terrace...
Covent Garden is not so far from the Museum and I decide to go there. It's a very pleasant place with stores and restaurants. It's very busy...
I end the day by passing the military buildings of Whitehall, including the Royal Naval Division War Memorial with its pretty columns and red facade...
July 26, 2018 - Abbey Road, Natural History Museum and an unexpected phone call
It's even earlier than other mornings, and I'm not sure I've slept well, but all I want to do is get outside and walk around the city. So I leave the hostel and head for Piccadily Circus and Regent Street. The place, which is usually packed with people, is empty. I hadn't expected to see this famous traffic circle like this… But lucky I am !!
I walk along Shaftesbury Avenue near Piccadily Circus. There's yet another Harry Potter spot referencing the last film part 1. Having just escaped from the Death Eaters, Hermione is surprised not to have wished Harry a happy birthday... Thank you Hermione !!!!
I then take the bus and stop at Abbey Road, the famous recording studio and crosswalk that appears on the cover of the eponymous album. I happen to have the album in my bag. I'd planned this day in advance and brought along the album Pascal had given me for my 25th birthday. I stand in the tiny square between the two streets, opposite the crosswalk. A few people are taking pictures of themselves too. I take the album out of my bag and hold it in one hand while the other takes the photo. I hold it out towards the crosswalk to create the illusion that the members of the group are walking on it. I feel as if I can see them. They're there, life-size. I take the photo. I'm pretty proud of this shot and glad to be here.
There's also the studio wall, filled with inscriptions and messages from fans. It's an emotional place.
The only museum I'd do in London is the Natural History Museum. I arrive in front of the building. There's a small queue, but I was expecting more. I realize that admission is free, so it's the perfect day. The fossil collections are insane, and the whale skeleton hanging in the big castle room is impressive and magnificent.
On the other hand, it's really hot. It's very crowded and I'm finding it hard to feel comfortable. I head for one of the cafeterias where I order a cold drink. I sit down at one of the tables, plug in my cell phone and start surfing the web. I sit here for at least an hour, cooling off as the air-conditioning is on.
Suddenly, a call wakes me from my lethargic state. I take the call. It's a recruiter from an institute to which I had applied for one of their job offers. But I never thought such a call would come, because I knew I didn't really have the experience I wanted, or so I thought at the time. So I was very surprised and uncomfortable, because I wasn't at all in the right frame of mind to talk to this recruiter. He tells me he can't hear me very well because of the noise and asks me if I can get out of the way. It's already catastrophic. I pack all my things as best I can and rush off to a quiet place. But I can't find it. I panic and walk fast. After several seconds, which seem like an eternity, communication is a little better. He introduces himself and tells me that he has several questions to ask me, a sort of short interview. I haven't done any revision or bothered to read up on the subject. I'd never imagined I'd be contacted. I'm in total panic. I make it clear that I don't know the answers to some of his questions. I hardly know any of them. He tells me that the interview is going to end now and that unfortunately I'm not really the ideal profile for such a position. I understand. I apologize to him for wasting my time. I feel as if I've collapsed inside. I don't know what to do. I'm caught up in the spirals of the ammonite next to me. I'm completely disorientated.
Everything is making me dizzy here, so I decide to leave and find myself in the streets of the city under a scorching heat. I return to the inn, tired from this day. I look forwards to being tomorrow.
July 27, 2018 - Quiet day in Notting Hill
This morning I wake up remembering yesterday and that call. I tell myself that this job wouldn't have suited me after all. Maybe I'm trying to reassure myself. Anyway, what happened happened and I try not to think about it anymore and get up to enjoy this beautiful day. I go out and have a look at the architecture of St. Pancras station. It's magnificent. In Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets, Ron and Harry take off from here in the Ford Anglia because they missed the Hogwarts Express.
The weather is absolutely beautiful, and I decide to head to Portobello Market in Notting Hill. The streets are charming and there are few people on the streets. The sky is blue and it's not too hot yet. I stroll leisurely along the exhibitors. I see the one with the old cameras, it attracts me, I take a photo of it.
The weather is absolutely beautiful, and I decide to head to Portobello Market in Notting Hill. The streets are charming and there are few people on the streets. The sky is blue and it's not too hot yet. I stroll leisurely along the exhibitors. I see the one with the old cameras, it attracts me, I take a photo of it.I stay at the market for a while. The atmosphere is really pleasant. I then head back to Regent Street where I go into Hamley's, the 5-story toy store. I am looking for a teddy bear for my niece. I'm taking the opportunity to discover the toys, the Legos, the stuffed animals of all kinds. The basement is dedicated to the world of Harry Potter. There is Hagrid built in Lego as well as Harry, of course.
I finally discover a beige teddy bear with a red bow, I like it a lot and take it. It will be for my niece's first Christmas. I really like London. The architecture of the buildings makes me feel good. I sometimes feel like I'm in the heart of small English villages. The parks are magnificent, well-maintained. There are so many things to see and observe. I pass through Covent Garden before heading back to the hostel. I show the photos of the day to my roommates. We each share what we saw, did, and observed. It becomes an evening ritual. It's quite nice. We all get along very well. Two Taiwanese people joined us, as well as a German. We get along well and laugh often. I get along well with Monica, who asks me if she can come with me tomorrow and follow my schedule. I gladly accept. It makes me very happy that she is asking me that.
July 28, 2018 - Day at Kew Garden
So we leave the next day for Kew Gardens, the Queen's royal gardens. But first, we stop at King's Cross station at platform 9¾. I had discussed it with Monica and she was the one who encouraged me to go. She knows I'm a Harry Potter fan, but I thought I was a bit too old for that kind of photo. She was right to push me because I really enjoyed it...
We take the bus because it's too hot in the subway, it's a real furnace. It takes us about an hour to get there. We discover a fabulous, breathtaking, magnificent place.
Kew Garden, a royal garden, lists nearly 30,000 plant species. The greenhouses are immense and house species of tropical plants such as banana trees and palm trees. We discover the water lily greenhouse. They are enormous. Some are in bloom. The cactus greenhouse is also impressive. The colors intertwine and the scents of the flowers enchant us. I smell a delicious, slightly sweet scent coming from a white flower.
We enter the Waterlily house. They are gigantic.
Kew Palace. It is the smallest of the royal palaces. It was originally built for the wealthy London silk merchant Samuel Fortrey in 1631.
We continue to stroll and admire the beauty of these plants...
The park is immense and allows us to escape for a while into the vegetable garden or the bonsai greenhouse. We really appreciate this moment. The morning is going very well.
This pleasant moment is coming to an end, it was magnificent and I am happy to have shared it with Monica. We return to central London and then I decide to go back to Camden. I really liked this neighborhood. I'm going to shop for a pair of shoes, then we'll decide to get takeout from one of the many small restaurants in Camden. I get rice, vegetables, and small fried chicken balls. We settle into an old barn where large leather sofas and wooden tables have been arranged. We settle in. We have a great time. We end the day in the thrift stores and small shops in the neighborhood.On the way back, I notice this small detail indicated on the roads. Indeed, at each pedestrian crossing, the direction to look before crossing is indicated. Without that, you can easily tell the real Londoners from the tourists. I admit that I have been wrong several times!!!
July 29, 2018 - Last day in London
The next day, it rains heavily. We take refuge with Monica at St. Pancras station...
...then we walk back to Camden once again to eat fish and chips at Poppies. We are the first customers. I am happy to share these last London moments with them. I appreciate her a lot. We had a long conversation the night before on the bus that was taking us to Kew Garden. We were talking about relationships and the life choices that each person makes. She was telling me that everyone does what they want with their life and that each person has their own universe, and that if my friends or loved ones evolve in their lives, well, so do I. Today I am here and where are they? She is right, I should really be happy in the present moment and make the most of it. She tells me that I will find something that suits me and that this is a more difficult period (spoiler, it's not quite resolved yet even though many things have been).
We decide to head back to the hostel. I need to pick up my suitcases, return my keys, and meet at St. Pancras. Monica came to say goodbye to me. There is a long line before the document checks. She waits for me like a parent who would wait until the last moment before leaving their child. She makes me laugh. I'm soon arriving at the gates. She waves at me, and I wave back. She turns her back and leaves. I board the Eurostar for the first time. I go through Paris and then take another train to Amiens. Here I am, back home.
To be continued…